ONLINE TROUBLESHOOTING

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No problem! For over 20 years we have been updating and improving our product line and have manufactured several generations and types of gauges. You can easily identify which set you have, download instructions and more on our GAUGE GEN ID PAGE HERE>>>

Yes, you do, they're in there! All NVU Phoenix and Direct-Drive gauges with OLED screens have 3 indicators built into the circuit board. ALL of the dials that are used for these have dead fronted (Invisible when off) indicators. Each lamp requires 12v + DC to activate. Refer to your wiring diagram for each wire color to illuminate the lamps. Check out our WHATS IN THE BOX VIDEO to see how the indicators look/work.

No, you don't! The 2-1/16" gauges have integrated LED lighting, no extra bulbs needed. The "bulb" hole is used for some of our commercial and defense customers, and it makes a great place to stick the direct drive plug in so it doesn't get stuck in the shipping box. Check out our WHATS IN THE BOX VIDEO to see how the lights work.

The programming buttons are used to set up your speedometer and tachometer with OLED screens. They are required to cycle through the menus and input the various settings as well as use the advanced features like set-able odometer, performance timers and shift alerts. We have these as separate items to not obstruct the gauge designs for a clean look. You can install them wherever you like; under the dash, through the panel, whatever suits you. To wire up: connect one side up to the brown wire, the other to ground. Do not mis-wire them as you will blow the button input and be stuck in SETUP mode requiring service to the gauge. We even created a YouTube video just for you, check it out RIGHT HERE ON YOUTUBE!

NVU Phoenix and Direct-Drive gauges and kits incorporate LED lighting. We recommend connecting to your parking lamp circuit as many older dimmers do not support LED dimming. The WHITE wire is the lighting connection on all NVU gauges. They require 12V to operate and some dimmers may not supply a full 12V at all or unlesss turned all the way up. If you need to dim the gauges a dimmer like our 99003-04 is recommended.

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No problem, we have 2 modes on our tachometers. Street and Sport. The street mode is usually sufficient as your engine will never be able to rev faster than the pointer when connected to the wheels on the ground. This mode is to make the pointer stead with lopey cams. In sport mode, the pointer is much more reactive, we have a good video on setting the speed HERE is the link.

All you need is a multimeter and a way to spin up the speed sender. Sometimes you can use a drill, and sometimes you may have to drive the vehicle. If you have a cable replacement style sender, PLEASE MAKE SURE THE DRIVE GEAR IS INSTALLED, especially on Ford/Tremec speed senders. TROUBLESHOOTING DOWNLOAD INTERACTIVE PDF HERE>>>

It’s easy, this can be done in the first 100 miles. In case you want over the mileage give us a shout, we can help. You can see a video setting up your odometer mileage RIGHT HERE>>>

This is caused by EMI (electro magnetic interference) in your vehicle’s system. Your vehicle is emitting radio and electronic emissions that interfere with electronic systems and are out of FCC guidelines. Don’t worry, we have a full tech article on the subject HERE>>>. There is also another really good artice on Speedway Motors Blog CHECK IT OUT HERE ">

Our diesel tachometers are built from our commercial, military and marine applications for rugged use. USE THE ORANGE WIRE ON THE TACHOMETER! For all of the details on our diesel tachometer check out OUR DIESEL TACHOMETER PAGE HERE>>>

The most important thing here is take a look at pager 12-1/2 to make sure you have connected to the right signal source and have the correct #5 DIP-switch setting. DO NOT CONNECT TO THE COIL IF YOU ARE USING A "MSD" OR OTHER IGNITION BOX OR EFI SYSTEM!! These have a dedicated tach output-- contact the manufacturer for how to connect. This will damage the gauge, and it will need to be serviced. Our tachometers have a built-in high-energy coil input and a pull-up input, these can be set using the #5 DIP switch. We ship these in high-energy mode (PROTECTED, DIP-SWITCH OFF). We also have some really good troubleshooting on our interactive PDF download: DOWNLOAD INTERACTIVE PDF HERE

The Tremec speed sender has a low output voltage for some reason, lower than standard GM or Ford signals. Unfortunately, we have not received a good explanation for this. There options for this and we have a good video on the subject THE LINK IS HERE >>>

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NVU gauges are standalone and can monitor the GM PCM (or any other) by installing the oil and temp senders and pulling the speed and tach signals directly from the PCM. We’ve done this 100s of times so its not a huge deal and it saves $$$. We have a good blog post HERE>>>.

All GM PCMs output a 4-cylinder, open collector signal. See the documentation in our PHOENIX BIG BOOK pages 11-12-1/2: 1. Set the tachometer DIP-switch #5 to on. This will turn on the internal pull-up resistor. 2. Run the violet wire on the tach to your PCM tach output. 3. Set the tachometer to 4 cylinders

NVU gauges are standalone and can monitor the Holley (or any other) by installing the oil and temp senders and pulling the speed and tach signals directly from the PCM. We’ve done this 100s of times so its not a huge deal and it saves $$$. Our LS swapped shop truck is running our CFR gauges on a Terminator X-max as well! Here is a link to the gerneral Terminator-X video WATCH IT HERE>>>. We also have a video on running your speedometer from the X-Max: WATCH IT HERE>>>.

The LT requires an M-12 x 1.75" thread, we are not sure why they changed the thread pitch, but GM decided to for some reason!

Last thing to check after reading over this blog post LS PCM INTEGRATION Make sure the speedo is set to 4,000 PPM (orange wire on speedo). The tach (violet wire on tach) has the pull-up resistor #5 DIP switch to ON (UP), set to 4 cylinders (yes, we know you have an 88 cylinder). 99% of the time it's the tune. Many "tuners" for some reason delete these settings. Ask them to pull your tune file and look at it, it's almost always the case where the tach or speedo signals outputs are deactivated OR sent to a non-OE setting.

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A few things on temperature gauges. If you are using an IR heat gun, please remember to take a few things into account. The sender is reading from the coolant inside the block, where the IR gun is reading the outside. These will differ dramatically based on how long the engine has been running, when the thermostat opens, fans turn on and if the system is properly bled. The coolant temperature can differ up to 10 degrees from your PCM data, we see this every day. Different senders reading at different areas can cause this. Please DO NOT USE TEFLON TAPE TO SEAL THE THREADS. Only use liquid sealant, this will ensure a good ground for the sender. We have additional troubleshooting on our TROUBLESHOOTING DOWNLOAD INTERACTIVE PDF HERE>>>

Our oil pressure senders and gauges the same robust units we use for our OE, Defense, Commercial and Marine customers with millions of miles on them. In the rare instance there is an issue, you can try a few things on your own to determine what the issue may be. Sometimes it just as easy as a pressure sender inlet being clogged with some dirty oil! Start by downloading our interactive PDF, that will take you thought the steps: TROUBLESHOOTING DOWNLOAD INTERACTIVE PDF HERE>>>

We have an excellent video on setting up your fuel gauge and checking the sender HERE is the link. Make sure to check n the back of the driver gauge for the fuel level (speedometer on direct-drive, tach om 3-1, and quad gauge on quad kits) remove the plastic DIP switch cover and set to the appropriate setting. The 5th DIP switch has no effect on fuel input. The chart is listed in your BIG BOOK. Additional ranges are also included for late model GM and Chrysler vehciles (listed in the direct fit books). All of our direct-fit kits ship with the appropriate configuration for the factory tank.

Phoenix instruments utilize a "last known reading" system that leaves the pointers at the last position when turning the vehicle off. If you wish to have the pointers rest at zero (in a show or photography session for example) simply turn on the key while the gauges do their self-calibration and power off when they reach zero.

This is usually a bad connection in the power or ground on that side of the set. Remember that the speedo drives 2 gauges, and that tach drives 2 on our Direct-Drive kits. To test for this temporarily unplug the 12-pin AMP plugs from the speedo and tach, swap the m into each other (speedo plug in tach, tach plug in speedo). This will verify whether the gauge will power on. If that is the case, check the connections. If the gauge still does not power on, contact us and we can take a look at it for you..

We have included wiring diagrams for vehicles that our customers have most. SNAP-ADAPT can also be used on other vehicles as long as it actually fits on the OE plug. Over the course of models and different clusters, the pin-outs do change. NO PROBLEM! You can figure it out all without a wiring diagram, all you need to do is WATCH THIS VIDEO HERE

You can use the factory-location indicators and turn signals (where if applicable) if you like AND/OR use the indicators/turn signals in the gauges-- Its all up to you when building YOUR CUSTOM gauge kit. The LEDs with flyleads require a ground and 12V+ to operate, simply wire them up as needed to the appropriate source and you're in business!

All of our A90 analog gauges have the same power, ground and lights wiring. When it comes to adding the transducer or 5v signal from another source like an AFR controller we use the 3-wire plug with Red, black and blue. In generaL:

ALL RESIATNCE GAUGES: (Fuel, oil press, temperature) Use the 4-pin plug and the signal goes on green.

ALL TRANSDUCER GAUGES: (Boost, pressure, etc that need a powered sender) Use the 4- pin (do not hook up the green wire) and the 3-pin. Red is 5V power, black is ground and blue is the signal from the sender.

ALL 0-5V INPUT GAUGES: (AFR CONTROLLER, ETC) Use the 4- pin (do not hook up the green wire) and the 3-pin ONLY USE THE BLUE WIRE.

We suggest watching THIS VIDEO HERE on how to wire up our A90 standalone gauges.

There is a complete how to WIRE UP TO AN AFR CONTROLLER video available.

LED are Light Emitting Diodes; this means that power can flow in one direction only. SOME vehicles utilize the bulbs as part of the lighting circuit like a Christmas tree light string. What this means is that if this is the case, the LED and/or flasher will not allow the chain to be complete and not light all of the bulbs. In this case, make sure the power coming into the bulb at that wire is a full 12V (not a ground).

No problem, sometimes things happen! Our service and warranty department can take care of whatever may have happened. We will need all of your information to properly process the work to be performed so that when your item arrives, our team will know who's gauge it is and what to do. We will need to generate a return number (RZA) and that must be on the box otherwise our team will not know who's it is or where to find the instructions on the work to be performed CONTACT US RIGHT HERE From there we will confirm everything and get you all of the information you need including RZA number and return address. HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE? Just a couple of days and your item will be shipped back to you, if there is anything odd going on we will let you know so there are not any surprises when you get it back.

Enter the answer here and then if you need a link you can place it HERE is the link. Lets see if more stuff can be here too.

Enter the answer here and then if you need a link you can place it HERE is the link. Lets see if more stuff can be here too.

SCROLL THROUGH THE SECTIONS TO FIND THE SPECIFIC QUESTIONS YOU ARE LOOKING FOR